Wear the correct clothing underneath
Measure over the type of jacket, suit, dress, blouse or other clothing normally worn underneath. Thick or unusual clothing changes the result.
A robe or gown should drape smartly without restricting movement. Measuring yourself can provide an initial indication, but for role-specific bespoke tailoring, a specialist maker’s check remains advisable.
Measure over the type of jacket, suit, dress, blouse or other clothing normally worn underneath. Thick or unusual clothing changes the result.
Keep the tape measure flat against the body without pulling it tight. Measure horizontal circumferences level.
Measuring yourself changes your posture and makes shoulder, back and sleeve measurements less reliable in particular.
Not every maker uses the same measurement form. The points below provide practical preparation, not a replacement for the instructions accompanying the commission.
Measure without shoes or clearly record which shoes are worn during measurement. Body height helps establish an initial proportion for the back, sleeves and hem.
Measure horizontally around the widest part of the chest and shoulder blades, with arms relaxed and without pulling the tape tight.
Measure across the back from shoulder point to shoulder point. The position of the sleeve attachment determines how the robe hangs.
Measure according to the maker’s prescribed method, usually from a defined shoulder point to the wrist or desired sleeve position.
Measure from the chosen shoulder point to the desired bottom edge. Allow for shoes, stairs and walking.
These measurements may be needed for the collar, fastening, lining and sufficient room when sitting and moving.
For the legal robe it regulates, the Dutch costume decree specifies a length ending approximately ten centimetres above the ground. This means the wearing height, shoes and final fit must be assessed together.
A different heel or sole height changes the distance between the hem and the floor.
The robe or gown must not get underfoot, drag on the floor or ride up awkwardly during a normal stride.
Use the statutory description and correct role profile; do not turn a legal robe into an unrestricted fashion design.
Check shoulder balance, collar, pleat drape, fastening and symmetry without correcting the posture.
Check that the robe or gown does not pull excessively across the back, shoulders, neck or fastening.
Test speaking, holding a case file, writing, clasping the hands and normal arm movements.
Check hem clearance, pleats, weight and how the robe or gown falls back into place.
Bands, cap, academic hood or stole must fit without disrupting the collar or balance of the robe or gown.
The measuring tape is pulled tight, leaving insufficient room for movement.
Measuring in a T-shirt when a jacket will later be worn under the robe or gown.
Shoulder and wrist points are used differently from those on the measurement chart.
The hem is determined without accounting for the actual wearing height.